Day 7: Ascend to Baranco Camp

MOUNTAIN ROUTE OVERVIEW

Today, the trail runs through a black lava desert past millions of boulders. From the Shira Plateau, the group will go up a ridge, past the trail to the peak of Kibo, to Lava Tower (known by locals as Shark’s Tooth). During their lunch break, they can take in the snowline above the Lava Tower. After lunch, they’ll descend to the Barranco Camp at an altitude of 13,000 feet. The black lava desert fades into heather and moorland. From Barranco Camp, they’ll see the Barranco Wall, the Western Breach of Kibo, and the South Glacier. This is where their hike ends – and they rest and have dinner. Because their bodies are exposed to such a high elevation at lunch, this is one of the most important days for acclimatization and will prepare our climbers’ bodies for summit day.

MOUNTAIN ROUTE STATS

Starting elevation 12,500 feet

Ending elevation 12,900 feet

Elevation gain 400 feet

Distance hiked 6 miles

Average hiking time 7 to 9 hours

JOURNAL ENTRY BY JOHNNY VRBA

Today was the first time we truly understood what it took to be the tallest mountain in Africa. We were awoken this morning to Eye of the Tiger on full blast to hype the crew up! The wind was strong all day long and slowed down our pace significantly. We gradually made our way around the mountain and as we climbed, the diminishing vegetation was very noticeable. Ravens were gliding over head in what felt like the most beautiful horror movie of all time. They seemed to mock us as they floated effortless overhead. Today was also the first day we started to feel the altitude. While approaching Lava Tower, our heads became slightly cloudy. We ate fajitas here which was the best lunch of the trip thus far. We then descended into Baranco Camp, following the critical rule of hiking high and sleeping low. This camp was by far the most beautiful, as the mountain was showing us her gorgeous face. When we arrived at camp we were greeted by singing and dancing to celebrate our small victory. Tomorrow we attack the iconic Baranco Wall which will reveal incredible views.

~ Johnny Vrba

P.S. Dear Mom, Today I created a mini Kilimanjaro in the bathroom and the entire camp was aware. Also, hope your foot is healing well because you’re coming next time...

JOURNAL ENTRY BY STEVE JOHNSON

Today’s original plan (as I understood) was to climb from Shira Camp over Lava Tower (4637 meters) and down to Barranco Camp. Having been the “tail wagging this dog” I have been escorted the last two days by our lead guide and new friends Samia Tarimo and a porter Michael. (Who always smiles and loves to laugh.)

Note: These two men are both well educated & accomplished.

They’re not just humping up and down Kilimanjaro because that’s all they can do, it’s what they want to do.

Back to the story...Samia had told me yesterday that he probably wasn’t going to lead me over the Lava Tower, but instead take me by a different route beneath it at around 14,700 feet. This would save time and a steep climb. At supper this was mentioned as the route for the entire team but, I don’t know what route they actually took.

When our threesome got to this alternate route I began having some difficulty. Samia told me

that I was suffering some serious altitude sickness. He told me it was dangerous for me to continue.

Samia explained that if I actually did make it to Barranco Camp and continued to have difficulty, a helicopter evacuation would be required. (The route to leave Barranco Camp requires going steeply uphill. Going UP not a good idea with altitude sickness.) Samia sent Michael to Barranco Camp to update Drew.

When Drew arrived (with four porters AND lunch) I was feeling better but, the safest thing for me was to get lower. One of the porters, Wilfredy Charles suggested going straight down from where we were to “the road.” Samia knew exactly what he had suggested.

Well not only being an old man, I’m old enough to know when I’ve had my “ass kicked.” Most importantly I promised my family that I would be safe. It was time to throw in the proverbial towel, call it a TKO and not be stupid. I decided I’d call it quits.

It’s been said, “Go ahead and make your plans and watch GOD laugh.” It’s time for me to go home and find out what GOD has in store for my life next.

One of the many take aways from this old Redneck’s experience has been meeting these African/Swahili people and being humbled before GOD.

Getting off Kilimanjaro was an adventure in itself, a story for another blog. But as a teaser, it involves a story about mountain lions, a run in with an antelope and a water buffalo.

To my family and friends, I’m safe and not injured; stupid maybe but no worse for wear.

To my climbing friends the answer is “Yes” to both of the first questions you’ll ask. We’ll let the other readers minds wonder and the dirty minds wonder even more.

I’m praying for the rest of the SAE team’s success. Best of luck to Brian, Keith and Kole. Johnny I have NO doubt you’ll make it, you’re like rocket fuel. I’m surprised you haven’t launch your skinny butt up that mountain already.

To the Young Life Team Trevor, Adell and Kasey who have been blessing our adventure: Praying for your success and that you find the direction that GOD has for your life.

Blessings and Phi Alpha.

ADDITIONAL JOURNAL ENTRY BY STEVEN JOHNSON

I have been asked to write a blog post about my Great Escape from Kilimanjaro. In my particular case I have been accused of oversharing. However, in my defense, several members of our team reported experiencing some “trust issues” of their own on the mountain. (Now if you don’t know what I’m talking about, you haven’t been paying attention.)

Perhaps it would be best to write the these thoughts in separate posts. So for those of you who want to know more about the whole trip and less of the ravings from an adolescent pensioner you can skip this posting. You’ve been warned.

When you last heard from me I was busy getting my “ass kicked” by Kilimanjaro and I had decided that my new motto would be “Let’s get oxygen.” It was around 4:30 PM when our lead mountain guide, Sam Tarimo started our retreat. Samia had given his backpack to one of the porters to carry on to the next camp. He took a bottle of oxygen out of his pack and put it in my daypack as a precaution. (I would have paid good money for a few hits, but Samia didn’t offer.). Samia carried my pack and we were joined by another guide Wilfredy Charless and a porter carrying my mountain duffle and down we went.

The beginning of this descent was steep, at some places steeper than the ascent route we’d been on. We were getting lower faster. Having climbed a few mountains I understood what we were doing and why, but that doesn’t mean it’s not without risk. Several time the hiking poles had to be put away to climb down boulders.

Once we came to a boulder ridge where you had to skirt a slick narrow ledge for about 8 ft. while clinging to the mountain. The drop was quite far and the landing would have really hurt. Around our house we have a phrase called “clutching cloth.” Usually the term is applied to close encounters driving/traveling by car. Believe me when I tell you that I was “clutching cloth” but, all I was grabbing was underwear. The “Pucker Factor” was tight and not even a Jimba was going to slip out.

We finally dropped down to flatter region that went down gradually. Samia sent Wilfred on ahead to make arrangements for my transportation back to Mt. Meru Hotel. Samia covered himself with this red with black plaid thin blanket. I offered him a jacket out of my pack. Samia explained that the cloth he was wearing is known as a Masai blanket and it is for a protection from mountain lion attack.

Samia explained that he is a Masai Warrior and this is the garment of a Masai Warrior. It seems that mountain lions instinctively recognize the garment of a Masai Warrior and mountain lions fear them. Many years ago the Masai would put these checkered garments on the meanest bulls among their cattle. When a mountain lion attacked the herd these bulls would fiercely defend the herd often killing the mountain lion. So over generations the mountain lion associates danger with the garment.

Samia explained how you face the mountain lion showing no fear and giving the mountain lion a dumb look (got that covered) never showing your back. Samia said there is a Masai secret involved in the power of the blanket, but he wouldn’t share it with me. Samia also told me that a porter had recently been killed on Kilimanjaro by a mountain lion. Now he tells me this;) while I’m hiking across the mountain lions pantry.

Our route down took us through another low camp on the opposite side of the mountain from where we had set up low camp. It’s called Moir Camp. There’s a Ranger Station there and the news of my escape seemed very well known. It was getting dark and we still had some hiking to get to the road and the rescue vehicle.

We had caught up with Wilfred and the porter carrying my duffle. As we were hiking toward the road a porter from another company’s crew began following along side of us. He began speaking to Samia in Swahili, but it was obvious from his tone, manner and demeanor he was asking something from Samia. Samia then explained to me that this porter had gotten sick on the mountain and was being sent home. But the company he works for didn’t provide him with transportation or the money to get home.

I told Samia that I would gladly share my ride in whatever vehicle was coming for me. However, the problem was bigger than that. The vehicle coming for me was going to Arusha two hours one direction and the porter was going to Moshi two hours the the opposite direction. So I asked what would it take to get this poor fellow home? Samia said he needed “$3.00.” I was flabbergasted! All of this hullabaloos over three measly dollars; a cup of coffee at Starbucks. I was amazed at how such a small sum in the USA could have such a huge impact in Tanzania.

I took three one dollar bills out of my wallet and gave it to Samia. I asked Samia not to tell the porter the money came from me, but from him. I explained that it was important that the porter recognize Samia as the person who helped him out. It would help build relationships later.

Now I'm relating this story not to be braggadocios. I’m relating the story so people reading this blog will understand the absolute desperation and poverty we have witnessed in Tanzania. How a people living under such depressed and depressing conditions could be so happy & kind and so quick to smile & laugh and have the sweetest spirit. We should be ashamed in the USA for how much we take for granted.

I’ll get off my soapbox now, but this story needed to be told to demonstrate our experience in Tanzania. Soon we were “found” by two Park Rangers who were looking for us apparently because the rescue driver was growing impatient.

At 7:30 PM we arrived at “the road” where the rescue vehicle was waiting. It had been three hours added to the hours of climbing before that and I was tired and ready to relax. But there’s more excitement to come.

The porter who carried my mountain duffle, the porter in distress, Wilfred and I get into this modified Land Rover.

The driver hops in does a U-turn and we’re off. The road is a narrow dirt road with trees & brush on one side and a shallow ditch on the other.

While driving along suddenly an animal leaps across the road right in front of the vehicle. It was a young antelope and it landed between the edge of the road and the ditch and busted it’s butt. But it jumped up and ran off.

As we continue we come around a curve and suddenly there’s a water buffalo standing in the middle of the road. The driver locks up the brakes and the vehicle slides to a stop within a few feet of the water buffalo. The headlights are shining in his face and he starts throwing his head around and I’m wondering if we’ve ticked this guy off and what’s next. After he throws his head around for a moment he turns and walks off the side of the road into the bushes.

We eventually reach the exit gate. I signed out of Kilimanjaro park. The driver took us to the highway where we met a Beyond Adventures driver named Frank who drove me to Mt Meru Hotel. My Kilimanjaro climb is over but the adventure continues.